Even in the middle of nowhere on the Nullarbor Plain, the border entry into Western Australia is a checkpoint. Here it is not the passports or stowaways that are checked but the presence of ... fruits and vegetables (and a whole list of prohibited items available here) which must be disposed of at the border. Officially, it is a measure to protect the agricultural industry of the state by preventing the transportation of some insects, weeds and diseases present elsewhere in Australia. It is understandable not to import fruits and vegetables just in case they are contaminated. Yes, but a question remains. What about the insects? Don't they ever cross the border on their own? We had already experienced this kind of quarantine arriving in Tasmania. In this case though it made more sense as it is an island.

Before crossing the Nullarbor Plain, you inevitably ask yourself the following questions:

• Will we have enough fuel?
• Will we have enough water?
• Will we have enough food?
• Is there any places to stay along the way?
• And what if we break down?

Just as we thought we had made it across unscathed, we were faced the last question. Explanations? More than 200 kilometers before reaching Norseman, the town at the western end of the plain, we got a flat. Never doing things by half, within minutes of putting the spare on... Bam... another flat. Luckily we were close to a roadhouse. What is this? They are your best friends when crossing the Nullarbor Plain, the magical answer to all the questions above. They are petrol stations which often offer catering services. So neither you or your vehicle will run out of fuel. Some of them provide accommodation to spend the night with comfort that varies from very poor to very good. However, as unlikely as it may seem, there is not necessarily a garage. If you break down and it is serious, often towing and repair costs are more expensive than abandoning your vehicle on the side of the road and buying a used one in Perth or Adelaide. If your problem is minor, you have access to, thanks to the previous category, one of the world's largest free auto parts self-service. And if you do not find what you are looking for, there is always the solution to get help from road trains which will drop at the roadhouse what you need and that you have previously purchased by phone in the "closest" town. This is what we have tested. Expect random delivery delays.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain: the long awaited moment, if not feared, has arrived. The Nullarbor is a whole lot of














In other words, nothing. Rien. Nada. Niente. A long journey of over 700 km in a setting more deserted than the desert itself. Not a single tree in sight, hence its name (if you have some knowledge of Latin, you would have already guessed). This plain occupies a total area of 200,000 sq km almost as big as Victoria. Aside from nothing, there is still the presence of Australia's longest straight road (145.6 km) and that of the world's longest golf course. The Nullarbor Links, a unique 18 holes - par 72 for the purists - extends over 1,365 kilometres from Ceduna to Kalgoorlie. Crossing the Nullarbor Plain linking South Australia to Western Australia is an adventure to experience once in a lifetime!

The Great Australian Bight is the huge mass of ocean along the south coast of Australia. For international authorities, this sea is part of the Indian Ocean while for Australians it is the Southern Ocean. Either way, it doesn't change its beauty. The coast, which stretches over 1,000 kilometers, is believed to be the longest line of sea cliffs in the world. At Head of Bight, before starting the long haul of the Nullarbor Plain, 200 kilometers west of Penong, the highway passes close by to the cliffs. But beyond admiring them, the place is famous for "hosting" the Southern Right Whales that migrate to these warmer waters each year - between May and October - to birth their calves. When we were there, not less than forty of them were playing only a few feet below. Access is not free, but what a spectacular sight! This is certainly one of the best places in the world to watch migrating whales. A definite addition to any to-do list during a trip to Australia! This time the picture is somewhat more convincing than the one of the Coffin Bay dolphins.